 |
|
|
||
|
By
Mark Higgins)
Two bolts hold the backrest on. Lower the backrest and expose the two bolts. You'll need to pull out some plastic hold downs to pull back the cloth and expose the bolts. Unbolt the backrest and remove it.
There are two tabs located on each side of the rear seat. They're just underneath the cushion. If you pull each tab, it will release the seat and allow it to be pulled out. You might be able to pull the tab with your hands, but may need a pair of pliers. Be careful, I broke one of mine pulling too hard.
You now need to remove the brace the goes behind the backseat in order to get access to the pump cover. Just remove all the bolts and bring it out.
Open Up the Fuel Pump Assembly -
You have access to the pump and fuel level sensor cover, which is easily removed with Phillips head screws. The cover and electrical harness that is closest to the passenger side it the fuel level sender. The cover closest to the driver side is the fuel pump cover. Remove the electrical connector.
The connectors that connect the lines to the cover are a Honda quick snap connector. You can just squeeze the white part and pull the black part back to remove the line. The line pointing directly to the rear of the car is the fuel send line, and the other is the fuel return line. Remove the to clips and lines. We will be removing the feed line all the way to the first junction point which is behind the driver side rear wheel. This comes later. Unbolt the fuel pump cover and remove the pump and bracket assembly.
You can see why I didn't place this pump in the tank. Remove the stock pump and replace it with a 3/8" fuel line. I used a male/male threaded fitting to bridge between the fuel line and the filter bag at the end.
The pictures should pretty well speak for themselves. The pump is mounted on a bracket which is mounted right behind the rear crossmember. Two holes were drilled up into the trunk to bolt it in. All the parts can be bought at a hardware store, clamps, rubber insulator, and flat aluminum.
Be sure and use thread lock on all bolt and use silicon to fill the holes in the trunk to prevent rusting. So now you need to run a new feed line that goes threw the pump. The feed line that attaches to the pump fits onto a hardline that's behind the driver side rear wheel. You need to jack the car up, remove the wheel, and remove the plastic liner that goes around the gas tank. It's held on with 10mm bolts and 4 plastic rivets. The transition from the plastic lines to the hard lines looks like this:
Remove the feed line clip, and pull the whole line out.
This hard line connection and the connection at the pump are 5/8" diameter. It unlikely your inline pump has 5/8" ports, so you need an adapter to move from the different sizes.
You'll notice I'm using regular rubber fuel line hose that's rated for FI fuel pressure. I'm not using anything fancy, like braided line for this. I'm using brass barb fittings as connectors and transitions. Use proper fuel line clamps for the hose. You can use the standard clip type clamps on the vacuum side of the pump, but use proper screw down clamps for the pressurized side. The line to the pump goes down and between the crossmember and trunk to the pump. The line from the pump simply wraps around to the hard line connection. Run the wires to your pump. The pump should have a positive and negative indicator on the electrical connections. You can use spade connectors to plug into the stock fuel pump connector. In this picture, the negative terminal is the one on the bottom left.
Connection to stock plug.
Connection to fuel pump.
These are the first thing that's going to corrode. After adding the wiring to the pump, coat the wire connections on the pump with silicon or something else that will keep the water out. You have a mounted and working fuel pump. Put everything back together.
|
||
about us| membership| rides| events| articles| forum| TPC Store| affiliates| sponsors| links| contact us| log in |
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)