By Daryl (aka xxx)
Last Updated

Checklist -

• Internal Harness (with 15A fuse installed)
• External Harness
• Left Fog Light (with H3C bulb installed). Fog Light has an "L" on the top
• Right Fog Light (with H3C bulb installed). Fog Light has an "R" on the top
• Fuse Sticker
• Relay
• Screws, Nut, Bolts (4 screws, 3/16" x 1/4" x at least 1/2" long and washers/nuts to fit (buy them yourself), 1 nut, 2 gold bolts)
• Fog Light Switch
• Zip Ties

With that out of the way, lets begin the install. You'll need a phillips screwdriver to remove/tighten the screws, some electrical tape would be nice, a 10mm ratchet, a very small phillips screwdriver (smaller then the 1st one you should already have), flashlight or shop light, a multimeter, and all necessary hardware that came with your fogs (see checklist above).

1. Now proceed to remove both turn signals by looking at them from the side (inward toward the center of the grill) and you should see 1 screw holding them in place which should be untightened using the phillips screwdriver. Afterwards, remove both black plastic pieces by undoing the little clips holding them in. Push the clips inward from the outside and then pull them off w/ some force (they wont break) and you should have a nice gap in your bumper:



2. From here, we're going to take the external harness out (black thick housing w/ orange wire and 2 black ends) and then run them along the inside of the bumper from making sure both sides are able to appear in the empty housing. This is what the drivers side should look like:

   

3. Now at this point if you look directly in the middle of the bumper you should be able to take the black thick housing and see a gold connection point in the middle, which will be our ground to the frame. You need to 10mm socket to screw the connection point down using 1 of the gold screws and your result should be this:

   

4. You can now plug the right foglight into the harness.

5. A good thing to do at this point would be to take your multimeter out and test the continuity of the harness and ground. Place one probe on the orange connector on the harness, and the other on the bolt at the top of the brace you just screwed into. The car's frame is connected to the negative side of the battery which completes the circuit. That means you don't need to run two wires for most things. Anyway, if the continuity is there then you're good to go. If not, check to see if there's anything wrong with the meter (touch the two probes) and then check to see if the metal nut, spade tip and chassis are all making good contact. DON'T GO PAST THIS STEP UNTIL YOU ACHIEVE CONTINUTIY. Once you have, disconnect the meter from the harness:

6. From here you can disconnect the foglight from the harness and loosely position the foglight in place, like so:



7. More over to the other side now (left) and find the orange wire sticking out of the thick black harness and then find the pre-run orange wire (wrapped in black tape most likely) back in behind the bumper near the side marker. Use the flashlight to see deep in there, and look around for a bit, you'll find it. Once found, connect the 2 wires together (male and female connectors) and this should be your result:



8. If you're now confident that your foglights are wired up correctly, its time to move inside the car!

9. Remove the fuse door. Down by the hood release there is a fuse panel door. You need to twist the latch and swing open the door and then remove the door completely (it comes off, just place it somewhere out of the way).

10. Now remove the fuse door frame. That whole plastic piece the fuse door clips into comes completely off. Start at the door sill and start prying the piece away from the car. It'll pop off (a white clip disengages eventually).

11. This part requires patience. You need to completely take out the section that houses the switches. There are two metal clips (they take a lot of abuse and won't snap so dont worry) on either side. We used ours fingers to pry the top off and away from the dash, and finally unclipped the top left clip. I do know that once one clip has been unclipped the rest are much easier. Once again, be patient:

     

12. Once you have the pocket out, choose which button you want to replace w/ the foglight switch. I'd keep cruise and definitly moonroof, so the last option is the useless dimmer. You can still connect the dimmer and slide it back underneath w/ the rest of all the wiring, we just dont need it visible. Here is a pic of what i took out (the far right switch) and then just use that small phillips screwdriver and replace the dimmer switch w/ the foglight switch:

     

13. Now connect your internal harness to the back of the foglight switch (only 1 will fit) and feed that bunch of cable down the hole towards the fuse box. Careful not to push your other connections down in the process.

14. You now have to make a decision about how you want your lights to work and when the switch itself is illuminated. Your options are:

    a. Operate when the key is in the "ON" position. (iE., foglights will turn on only when you press the button inward)

    b. Operate the lights when the dash lights are on. (iE., when you turn on your 1st set of lights (not headlights, side markers, dash display)

    If you choose a), then plug the brown plug with the two red wires needs to be plugged into the connector port marked 2:

    

    If you choose b) then plug that into the connector port marked 1 (immediately to the left of port 2). Whichever one you choose, make sure they snap in tight.

15. Connect the other plug to the port marked 5 ( white wire, kinda thick ) :

    

16. Now remember the orange wire you plugged the external harness into on the drivers side at the bumper? Now you have to find the other end of it. It's right at the back near the firewall - it's also wrapped in black tape. Connect the internal harness orange wire to this wire.

       

17. Connect the relay to the internal harness (black piece w/ white writing on it). Look to the right of the hood release lever and you'll see another bolt (yes you need to 10mm socket again). Loosen it, and slide that gold connection point under it (2nd ground point) and fasten it snug & tight:

    

18. From this point on, your fogs should now work, assuming you did everything correctly. Go ahead and try it out!

19. If everything lights up and the switch works, you're nearly done. All that's left is to securely fasten the foglights in place using a set of 4 screws/washes/nuts that you purchased yourself already (the black ones im sure can work, we just found them too small since the holes in the frame that the foglights fasten to are unthreaded). Attach the turn signals the same way you took them off (using that 1 screw from the inside of the bumper near the grill and a phillips screwdriver, and the end result of all your wiring and installing the foglights should be this: