Na Only

[Lloyd]

Come on, shifting at 5k?

Of course you could always join the better, NAer side

[Ming]

Originally Posted by Lloyd

Come on, shifting at 5k?

Of course you could always join the better, NAer side

I no longer shift at 5k, 7.5k now

[Grant]

Originally Posted by Ming

man just sitting in the car for a ride for 20 mins was tiring, i don't know how you drive that long...

I couldn't be a passenger that long.. I would either get sick or really bored...

[a_z]

Originally Posted by histyle

So my question is if you go in for a bottom end rebuild with froged stuff, say darton sleeves, wiseco forged pistons 11.5:1, crower rods. And run the NA and latter on boost it, like a_z is saying how risky is that

Its as risky if not a tad bit more than running boost on a stock motor...the only difference is, if you damage something it won't be as significant as on a stock motor because you have materials that are built stronger.

I've done both...built low cr motor+boost and built high cr motor+boost. The only thing that limits you with high cr is how much boost you can run (even with meth/alky injection). But with higher cr also comes quicker spool-up...if its one thing I hate about low cr motors, its the sluggishness.

[histyle]

So your saying with a forged NA build, you will have to run boost like you would on a stock motor

[a_z]

^^^no, you can run higher boost...it just needs more detailed tuning than a stock motor would. And for a daily driven car, a street tune helps out more than a dyno tune IMO.

[TwizT]

Originally Posted by histyle

So your saying with a forged NA build, you will have to run boost like you would on a stock motor

You would need to run 94 octane fuel and retard enough ignition timing to avoid/prevent detonation.

[a_z]

Originally Posted by TwizT

You would need to run 94 octane fuel and retard enough ignition timing to avoid/prevent detonation.

true

msd boost retard=best bang for the buck

[Ming]

Originally Posted by a_z

true

msd boost retard=best bang for the buck

can't you retard the timing on the ecu side with tuning? if its hardware it'll be like those nasty FMUs no?

[mmmark]

Just a random question for all the guys who have gone turbo..
If you don't mind sharing, how much did it all cost, when everything was said and done.
I'm jsut trying to get a average figure. If you don't want to post the price thats all good too. Thanks anyways

[a_z]

Originally Posted by Ming

can't you retard the timing on the ecu side with tuning? if its hardware it'll be like those nasty FMUs no?

you can retard timing with tuning, but its set...with an external boost retard wired into the distributor, you can advance and retard which is the feature I like.

I ran the msd boost retard on the accord with no issues whatsoever

[DirtyLude]

How did this turn into another FI thread?

MSD boost retard is a total waste of money. I got rid of mine a long time ago. It's for cars without engine management. Set the proper timing with an initial tune of your engine management and don't bother with piggybacks like a timing retard unit.

[histyle]

yeah thats what i was thinking too

For all FI queries please divert to the FI sticky

[histyle]

So after doing some research and taking long walks thinking about what to do with the lude, I dont think i can put it back together the way it was.

Thats why i decided
























. . . . to go for a full NA Rebuild.

Pics and Details to come soon

[Arjun]

Originally Posted by histyle

. . . . to go for a full NA Rebuild.

Pics and Details to come soon

Is the motor f***ed?

[TwizT]

Originally Posted by Arjun

Is the motor f***ed?

I think he may have bent some valves due to a fault auto tensioner.

[fgramegna]

Originally Posted by histyle

So after doing some research and taking long walks thinking about what to do with the lude, I dont think i can put it back together the way it was.

Thats why i decided

. . . . to go for a full NA Rebuild.

Pics and Details to come soon

NOICE

[00blacksh]

that pocketracing website looks intense take into account thats a 2.5L stroker motor, and for 12g at 335hp thats not too bad price wise, thats a entirely new motor, by the time you fully build your motor for a turbo its some serious coin.... i dunno im stuck between the two...9500rpm=amazing but the scream of a turbo with a BOV is hard to beat i dunno

[Felix]

335... just run it as NA.. xD

[everlude]

a18 all the way for this guy, may be old and low in hp but i do love that throttle response

[H22VTECorNothin]

boost is gay for H22. they dont need it. especially when you can build a motor like this:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...DYNO_63186.htm
347.9 HP and had more left in it but they dyno maxed out from the RPMs. Was capable of 10k

All throttle. No boost, no bottle. FTW

[Lude01234567]

The pocket racing engine wtih 325+ hp is very hard to believe.. For the 12g's they want, it is a super samokin deal.. That is if the hp claim is true..
I had a H22A fully built a few years back and it never even cam close to 300hp...More like 200+hp to the wheels.. I spent more than 12g's to do it as well back then.. I remember there were alot of turbo H22's out there that didn't get that kind of power..
I learned 3 things from owning a prelude when I was in the same situation of having to do something with my motor.. I literally spent many thousands on my lude, and learned a heck of alot..

1) if you want BIG power with a lude, build the motor, get a turbo kit, and tune the crap out of it...
2) If you build your engine N/A, then DON'T EXPECT huge power and be happy with 200hp +/- to the wheels (which is wayyy faster than stock) and don't cry about the money spent to get this kind of power...
3) If you really want a super fast vehicle, but you don't want to spend big bucks, get a different car.. The prelude was never meant to be the quickest, and it takes alot of cash to make big reliable power.. It has many other features that make it a cool car, be happy with a cool car..

just my 2 cents...

[pro95accord]

I don't have any idea what I want to do. I love NA but also turbo.

I've seen Pocketrockets car and yes that thing moves. The amount of power is pretty accurate for whats been done. I don't believe that it's practical for a DD though. Just listening to the idle makes me think how it'll pass the idle test (emissions)

If I went the NA route it would be with 11.5:1 MAX with high comp. valves. and push powerband into the 8000+9000rpm range. Prob use type S cams and a hondata with a RMF or Hytech Header. As for boost I love it but I don't like the constant wheel slip. sounds cool but thats about it.

On my previous H22 NA build I got 195whp and that was with DC header, CM clutch/flywheel, Skunk2 intakemanifold, skunk2 valvetrain, skunk2 pro2 cams and cam gears, and AEM standalone, 2.5" exhaust with CAT and Twin loop muffler. I could of made more but my exhaust was holding me back.

[histyle]

^ The type of CAMS you use is the key to what kind of power you make in NA setup. Type S cams are good and will give you a motor that idles like stock. But you will reach its peak between 7500-8000 and start to drop of after 8K. There is no fun in reving a motor that high when you have nothing to gain but reduced life of the motor itself.

In NA setup i would rather have a power band to play with then a max peak HP at one point at the top of the rev limiter

[pro95accord]

i agree i would rather have a powerband then peak. thats the difference between the H series and B series. For cams if i really wanted something a little more aggressive I would go with the Jun 3 cams idle fine and produce good torque and Hp were it can be used.